Standup paddleboarding is one of the fastest-growing water sports of the past decade. The market is flooded with high-quality standup paddleboards, and our buyer’s guide can help you choose the best, whether you are a seasoned paddler or just starting out.
Standup paddleboarding, or SUPing, is the act of standing (or sitting or kneeling) on a rigid or inflatable board that’s tapered at both ends. You use a paddle to accelerate and steer through the water. Whether you’re floating on a mellow river or lake, navigating Class 2 rapids, or exploring coastlines, a SUP offers freedom you don’t get in a boat or kayak.
Inflatables, which we focus on here, are a great option because when they’re deflated, they can more easily fit in a closet, trunk, or truck bed — you can even take them on airplanes. Inflatable designs have benefits on the water, too, like durability against rocks or other debris.
Designs like the Blackfin Model V, which is longer and narrower with a pointed nose, are built for speed, can carry a heavy load (or two people), and are ideal for tours. Other boards such as the BOTE Breeze Aero Classic Paddleboard are shorter, wider for stability, include tie-down points, and are fairly light: They’re great for single paddlers and casual outings.
Since this guide was co-authored by our lead paddlers, Senior Editor Morgan Tilton and contributor Mary Murphy, in 2021, our team of testers has continued to explore lakes and rivers by SUP from Colorado to Utah to Texas. If you’d like to learn what differentiates each SUP, check out our Buyer’s Guide, or compare models in the Comparison Chart. And if you have questions about the wallet breakdown, take a look at the Price & Value summary. Otherwise, read our full gear guide below.
Editor’s Note: We updated this guide on October 14, 2024, with the field-tested and award-winning Hydrus JoyRide.
The Best Standup Paddleboards of 2024
Best Overall Standup Paddleboard
-
Length
11′ -
Width
32″ -
Thickness
6″ -
Weight capacity
350 lbs. -
Weight
23 lbs. -
Fin setup
1 removable -
Tie-down points
14 -
Features
5 padded grab handles, 14 d-rings (including one beneath the nose), texturized stomp pad and foam, criss-crossed bungee cord, straight bungee cord -
Accessories
Three unique removable fins, board bag with hip belt, repair kit, 9′ coil leash, manual pump
-
Soft, roomy grab handles — and five of them -
Tons of sturdy lash points -
High weight capacity -
Very durable construction -
Stable
-
We wish the chest strap on the board bag was easier to adjust -
A bit challenging to get mud stains out of the foot pad
Best Budget Standup Paddleboard
-
Length
10’6″ -
Width
33″ -
Thickness
6″ -
Weight capacity
250 lbs. -
Weight
20 lbs. -
Fin setup
2 plus 1 removable center fin -
Tie-down points
13 -
Features
10-inch removable center fin, center handle for carry, handles on nose and tail, fixed bungee strap on nose, four D-rings on side rails, 1 D-ring on tail -
Accessories
3-piece paddle, repair kit, hand pump, backpack travel bag
-
Relatively lightweight -
Sturdy -
Great price
-
Side bite fins are not removable -
Not the top choice for whitewater adventure
Best Long Tours Standup Paddleboard
-
Length
12’6” -
Width
32″ -
Thickness
6″ -
Weight capacity
485 lbs. -
Weight
30 lbs. -
Fin setup
3 removable -
Tie-down points
20 D-rings, 2 Bungees -
Features
Sand Spear mounting points, seat attachment points, triple-layer PVC construction, reinforced seams -
Accessories
3-piece paddle, triple-action hand pump, carrying bag
-
Tandem capacity -
Fins install without tools -
Includes repair kit -
Mounting points for seat
-
Challenging to maneuver when loaded down with all 3 fins attached -
Not the best board for beginners
Most Rigid Inflatable Paddleboard
-
Length
10’ 6” -
Width
34” -
Thickness
6” -
Weight capacity
300 lbs. -
Weight
23 lbs. -
Fin setup
Single center fin, removable -
Tie-down points
6 Point Front, 4 Point Rear Bungee -
Features
Full-Length Traction Pad, Paddle Holder, High Pressure Valve
-
Exceptionally rigid for an inflatable SUP -
ISLE-Link converts to highly adjustable sit-on-top Kayak -
Spacious storage bag
-
Fin attachment can be tricky at first
Best Standup Paddleboard for Yoga
-
Length
10’6″ -
Width
32″ -
Thickness
4.75″ -
Weight capacity
260 lbs. -
Weight
21 lbs. -
Fin setup
Single fin, removable -
Tie-down points
4 (D-rings that anchor the bungee strap) -
Features
3 grab handles -
Accessories
Adjustable 3-piece paddle, backpack roller bag, hand pump, leash, repair kit
-
Expansive thick cushion across top -
Comfortable carry handles
-
Need more tie-down points for multiday trips -
Not our first choice for whitewater
Best Ultralight Paddleboard
-
Length
10′ -
Width
30″ -
Thickness
6″ -
Weight Capacity
250 lbs. -
Weight
12.9 lbs -
Fin setup
Single -
Tie down points
4 -
Features
EVA deck pad, welded D-rings, bungee -
Accessories
Pump, paddle, leash, pack
-
Extremely light -
Good stability and performance for size -
Small pump design -
Carry-on size
-
Only single fin -
Smaller deck pad area -
Not the most durable
Most Attachment Points on a Standup Paddleboard
-
Length
12′ -
Width
30″ -
Thickness
6″ -
Weight capacity
300 lbs. -
Weight
24 lbs. -
Fin setup
1-fin, removable -
Tie-down points
23 D-rings, 23 Seamount attachment points -
Features
PVC drop stitch exterior, double-layer PVC side rails, EVA deck pad -
Accessories
Hand pump, backpack travel bag, paddle
-
Large enough for 1-4-day expeditions (carrying rider plus gear) -
Durable -
Lots of attachment points -
Stable when paddling
-
Smaller deck pad area -
Hard to pump to maximum PSI
Best of the Rest
-
Length
10’6″ -
Width
30″ -
Thickness
5″ -
Weight capacity
230 lbs. -
Weight
18 lbs. -
Fin setup
2 plus 1, removable -
Tie-down points
6 -
Features
Bungee straps, center handle, handles on nose and tail, unique Velcro strap for water bottle in center, integrated GoPro mount -
Accessories
Hand pump, backpack travel bag, coil leash, multi-piece paddle
-
Best for solo paddlers and lighter loads -
Super lightweight -
Streamlined and fast
-
Not ideal for carrying multiple paddlers or heavier cargo loads -
The slightly narrower and leaner design makes the board not as stable in whitewater, wakes, or waves
-
Length
10’4″ -
Width
34″ -
Thickness
6″ -
Weight capacity
250 lbs. -
Weight
20 lbs. -
Fin setup
1 removable (10″), 2 fixed -
Tie-down points
8 -
Features
Three carry handles, fixed bungee strap on nose (with 6 D-rings), 1 D-ring on tail, 1 D-ring next to center handle -
Accessories
3-piece aluminum paddle, backpack-style bag, hand pump, coiled leash, repair kit
-
Excellent stability and stiffness -
Good maneuverability -
Generous, comfortable, and grippy deck pad -
Great value
-
Small attached fins get deformed and must be straightened -
Aluminum paddle prone to damage and is slippery -
Rudimentary travel bag
-
Length
10′ -
Width
32″ -
Thickness
6″ -
Weight capacity
260 lbs. -
Weight
19.8 lbs. -
Fin setup
2-fin, removable -
Tie-down points
4 D-rings plus front and tail bungees -
Features
2 removable 2 x 9 in fins, EVA deck pad, offset carry handle in the center plus carry handles on nose and tail, bungee cords on nose and tail -
Accessories
5-piece carbon paddle, iROCKER 12V Electric Pump , 10-inch coil leash, backpack travel bag
-
Anchored bungees are located on both the nose and tail -
Coil leash included
-
Not a good option for multiple paddlers -
No manual pump is included
-
Length
10′ 6″ -
Width
32″ -
Thickness
4.7″ -
Weight capacity
220 lbs. -
Weight
21.9 lbs. -
Fin setup
2-fin, fixed -
Tie-down points
D-ring on tail, 2 elastic straps on nose, 1 adjustable bungee strap with two D-ring anchors -
Features
3 carry handles, accessories mount -
Accessories
Backpacker roller bag, hand pump
-
Super innovative minimal backpack carry system -
The fins are fixed so travelers don’t need to fuss with managing extra accessories
-
Paddle not included -
Lacks tie-down points for overnighters and heavier loads -
Fins are not removable (for some paddlers, the lack of adjustability is a downfall)
-
Length
11’6″ -
Width
34″ -
Thickness
6″ -
Weight capacity
315 lbs. -
Weight
30 lbs. -
Fin setup
2 plus 1, removable -
Tie-down points
10 D-rings anchor the bungee straps plus 4 D-rings along sides, D-ring on nose, 2 D-rings on the top -
Features
Bungee straps on nose and tail, 10-inch center fin, four D-rings on side rails -
Accessories
3-piece paddle, repair kit, hand pump, backpack travel bag
-
Higher weight capacity for hauling gear on tours -
Compatible with a huge range of accessories that are especially great for anglers, birders, and tours like the SUP paddle seat -
Ample tie-down and attachment points
-
Additional accessories add up so budget accordingly -
Not a SUP weight we’d want to hike far with
-
Length
11’6’’ -
Width
32″ -
Thickness
6″ -
Weight
21 lbs. -
Weight capacity
295 lbs. -
Fin setup
2 plus 1 center fin -
Tie-down points
9 D-rings -
Features
Paddle holder, 3 grab handles, front and rear bungee storage -
Accessories
Paddle with adjustable aluminum shaft, nylon blade
-
All-in-one kit -
Good price
-
Lower weight capacity for the weight of the board -
Slightly narrower width (not for beginners)
Standup Paddleboard Comparison Chart
Scroll right to view all of the columns: Price, Length, Width, Weight, Fin setup.
How We Tested Standup Paddleboards
We take SUPs on river outings and turbulent whitewater, across lakes, and through canyons. We hike with our SUPs to high-altitude mountain lakes, paddle on wide-open reservoirs, and load them up for multiday adventures.
Our Expert Testers
Hailing from Crested Butte, Colo., Senior Editor Morgan Tilton is an avid paddleboarder. Tilton enjoys paddling the lakes, reservoirs, and rivers in the Elk and San Juan Mountains. With five friends, Tilton completed a self-supported first SUP descent down the 100-mile wild whitewater of Utah’s Escalante River, giving her a unique perspective to evaluate SUPs for their cargo-carrying and touring abilities.
Based out of Denver, contributor Mary Murphy frequently tests the latest paddleboards on the local lakes, regardless of conditions, and enjoys multi-day tours whenever she gets the chance.
Other contributors have included Sean Jansen and Seiji Ishii.
Our Testing Grounds
We have tested SUPs in Colorado, California, Utah, Texas, and Mexico from the mountains to the ocean.
Our Testing Process
When testing SUPs, we look at the overall construction, durability, rails, handles, attachment points, pad, stomp pad, air valve, weight, length, width, depth, shape, fin compatibility, adaptability, and accessories. Bundles often include a carry bag, hand pump, fins, and potentially a leash or paddle.
Our metrics for each board included quality, construction, and value. We put a huge focus on inflatable standup paddleboards and all-around models. They are a great option for all experience levels, have a variety of uses (flatwater and whitewater), and don’t require special racks or extra storage space.
We test all of the boards on this list — with and without gear bags strapped down — to get a feel for how the boards handle at different weights. In addition, we consider the newest, highest-rated, most popular, and bestselling models on the market today.
Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Standup Paddleboard
Paddleboards are similar in shape to a long ocean surfboard but also have fins that are removable or fixed on the bottom, which help the board track well in the water while being steered.
Some paddlers use their boards for multiday adventures, while others race, fish, surf ocean waves, do yoga, run whitewater, hike to glacial tarns, or hang out with friends and family at the local reservoir. Our experts take all of these uses and scenarios into account when evaluating paddleboards.
Types of Standup Paddleboards
A variety of standup paddleboard designs exist, tailored to specific activities and user goals. Boards can also have hybrid designs that work well for a variety of applications.
All-Around
These popular boards work for many types and experience levels of paddlers, from whitewater to flatwater. However, the designs do not excel at a specific type of paddling, such as racing or whitewater.
The majority of the SUPs in our guide are all-around boards, given the designs are often suitable for beginners, families, groups, individuals, and laid-back paddling in addition to more aggressive missions. All-around SUPs can be rigid or inflatable, and we focus on inflatable designs in this guide.
Whitewater
SUPs for whitewater are typically inflatable, which increases the durability while running against rocks, trees, or other debris. While they’re lengthier than a river surfboard, they’re generally shorter than the longest SUPs that are speed- or race-oriented on flat water.
Touring (Flatwater)
Touring boards are made to be stable and move fast in water for paddling over long distances. The shape, or hull, is pointier to displace the water. Touring SUPs can be rigid or inflatable.
Fishing
For greater stability, fishing-oriented SUPs are often wider, which makes them a tad slower than narrower boards. These boards also usually have plenty of attachment points for angler accessories. Fishing SUPs can be rigid or inflatable.
Race
The length of the SUP is longer, and the width is narrower. The longer design helps the board track straighter. The three primary race categories are 12’6″, 14′, and everything that’s longer than that. The shape, or hull, can be pointier to displace the water (called a displacement hull), which is good for flatwater races and long distances. Or, a planing hull sits more on top of the water, which is useful for choppy or ocean water.
Surf
If you frequent the ocean and want to surf waves, you can do so on a SUP. These designs are usually shorter in length and narrower for maneuverability.
Rigid vs. Inflatable SUPs
Rigid Designs
Performance-wise, rigid SUPs travel stronger through water and with more stability compared to a lighter, air-filled inflatable. A rigid board is typically made of EPS foam that’s reinforced with fiberglass and epoxy. The blend is durable and fairly light.
Another rigid material option is to invest in a carbon fiber board if you want an even lighter-weight, stiffer build. Carbon fiber is pricier. Designs can also incorporate wood, which is aesthetically attractive. Those options include bamboo, which is strong, light, and less expensive than carbon fiber. Other types of wood include cedar, paulownia, and beetle-kill pine.
Generally, rigid boards have a broader range of shapes and sizes compared to inflatables. If you do go with a rigid board, be sure you have the proper transportation setup, like a vehicle rack, as well as a place to store the full-length board year-round.
Inflatable Designs
Inflatable SUPs usually are made of plastic with reinforcements, such as along the rail and beneath where the paddler stands. They are pumped up with air for use, similar to pumping up your bike tires before a ride. The materials of the deck pad are soft and grippy underfoot.
Inflatable designs are super popular because they’re easier to store and transport than a rigid board. But they do require energy and time to inflate every single time you use the board. Typically, it takes us about 10 minutes to pump up a board — it’s a great warmup before a paddle. It can raise your heart rate and make your biceps burn depending on the PSI needs of the day!
They are also generally less performance-oriented than rigid boards in regard to speed and stability.
Inflatable SUPs are a great choice if you will be in low water depths or near rocks, sharp sticks, or logs because they can absorb and handle abrasion and impact better than a rigid board.
Shape or Hull
The hull is the shape of the board. There are generally two types of shapes for SUPs, which are in simple terms rounder and pointier.
Wide & Blunt (Planing Hull)
This SUP design is flatter and rides toward the surface of the water. The wider, rounder nose (and tail) and overall shape are stable and easier to turn. Planing hulls are used for all-around SUPs. These shapes are generally good for whitewater, surfing (the shape is similar to a surfboard), and practicing yoga on a SUP.
Narrow & Pointed (Displacement Hull)
A displacement hull is narrower, and the nose is pointier so the board efficiently, smoothly cuts through the water, and tracks well. The tail is often flat instead of round. Flatwater or touring and race-specific boards typically have a displacement hull. This design is a good choice for competitions, events, and speed-oriented workouts or covering long distances.
Length & Width
With boards, the length and width correlate to overall volume and weight capacity. Overall size influences how nimble a board is in waves or whitewater (relative to the paddler size and cargo weight) as well as the board’s stability. If ocean surfing is your focus, go shorter. For an all-around board, choose a moderate length. If your priority is long-distance tours, opt for a longer board.
Otherwise, if you weigh 140 pounds (and want the board to be extra speedy or maneuverable), you have the option of choosing a shorter length — and, therefore, lower volume — board. If you weigh at or over 180-200 pounds — or if you want to paddle with a dog, child, or partner — consider a longer length and wider board. Also, consider if you want to travel super lightweight such as on short day trips. Or if you need plenty of storage for cargo, such as dry bags and a cooler.
In general, here are the guidelines for short, moderate, and long boards:
- Short: Less than 10 feet
- Medium: 10 to 12 feet
- Long: Greater than 12 feet
Widths range from around 25 inches to 35 inches or more. Adding width increases the volume, which improves stability and capacity for hauling gear. Narrower boards have less drag, move faster, and can more easily pivot.
Generally, we recommend a slightly larger board to new paddlers to offer more stability. The most common size boards are 10′ 6″ or 11′. But there are plenty of lengths, shapes, and sizes beyond that range.
If you’re shopping for a family, you can save buckets by purchasing one longer, wider board instead of two (or four). For instance, two 140-pound adults can comfortably fit on an 11′ board (the fit and weight limit will vary by brand). Like kayaks, there are even tandem-specific models out there (ranging from 12 to 15 feet in length).
Weight & Weight Capacity
Inflatable SUPs generally weigh less than rigid boards. All of the inflatables in our guide weigh under 31 pounds. The heavier boards include the 30-pound BOTE HD Inflatable Paddle Board. The lightest board is the 12.9-pound Kokopelli Chasm Lite, followed by the 18-pound Badfish Flyweight.
The weight capacity is how much a SUP can safely carry, including paddlers, pets, catch, or cargo.
When you trim a SUP’s grams, typically, the board has a lower weight capacity overall. However, there’s not a direct correlation so pay attention to those numbers. For instance, the BOTE HD Inflatable Paddleboard weighs a tad less than other models, has a greater overall volume, and can carry 315 pounds.
For instance, the Badfish SUP Flyweight can tote up to 230 pounds, and the iROCKER All-Around 10′ Ultra Paddleboard can carry 260 pounds.
Deck Pad
The deck pad covers the top of the SUP where the paddler will sit or stand. Coverage varies per board, and some boards have wider, longer patches of pad than others. The material blend is unique to each brand but often includes plastic.
The materials offer traction and grip, and they generally feel soft and cushioned. However, that doesn’t mean you can’t get burnt from friction. If you plan to paddle whitewater or uneven water, don’t be ashamed to wear knee pads, especially on a long trip.
One of our favorite deck pads is on the Boardworks SHUBU Solr. Using a material called “Honey Fomb,” which looks like honeycomb and feels like a therapeutic, thick yoga mat, it makes standing, sitting, kneeling, or practicing yoga poses much more comfortable.
All-around or whitewater boards typically have a deck pad that covers the majority of the board’s surface and at least covers the center to the tail, given the paddler will be making more dynamic paddling strokes and moving around to shift weight on the board. For instance, the Boardworks SHUBU Solr is almost entirely covered in a cushioned deck pad.
Comparatively, the EVA deck pad on the iROCKER All-Around 10′ Ultra Paddleboard is split in the middle with two strips where the paddler is likely to stand, which helps trim down weight.
Rails
The SUP rail is the edge around the board. The rail materials can vary, and the shape can be rounder or more angular.
Rails are important to pay attention to because they can often be the first place on a board to get dinged or begin to deteriorate through use. It’s good to know how to repair a rail and have your repair kit on a trip.
Handles
Many SUPs are designed with a well-cushioned, ergonomic carry handle in the center of the SUP, so you can carry it under your arm. There can also be carry handles at the nose and tail. Some carry handles are more comfortable than others, and not all are cushioned. The Hydrus JoyRide has five very plush grab handles: three in the center of the board, one on the tail, and one on the nose.
Tie-Down Points & Bungee Straps
Various tie-down points exist on SUPs. Many designs feature bungee cord nets fixed to the front or back of the board (or both).
For overnight paddle trips and whitewater trips, our favorite feature is stainless steel D-rings — they’re easy to clip or thread tie-downs into, reliable, and super sturdy.
Other rings include soft rings, which are not as quick to thread, and plastic rings, which are not as durable as stainless steel.
Certain SUP designs feature specific attachment points for brand accessories tailored to certain sports like fishing and touring. The BOTE HD Aero Paddleboard is compatible with removable rack receivers for the brand’s tackle rack or bucket rack accessories for anglers.
Standup Paddleboard Fins
Fins beneath the board near the tail help a board track well (read: stay straight) in the water and help increase stability. Sizes and shapes vary. The longer the fin, the more influence it will have on tracking and stability. In contrast, shorter fins are great for shallower water like low-volume rivers, certain beaches, or areas with lots of vegetation like seagrass. Often folks refer to fin size in regard to the length of the fin or how much it protrudes into the water.
Lots of paddle brands offer removable and interchangeable fins for various types of water. Certain boards have a mix of both fixed and removable fins, like the BOTE WULF Aero 10 ‘4”, which has two fixed side fins and a removable larger center fin.
A removable fin attaches to a board via a fin box or plate, which is where the end of the fin slides or snaps into place. Note: not all fins are compatible with all types of fin boxes.
A variety of fin configurations exist:
- 1-fin: One single, usually longer fin that is placed in the center
- 3-fin: Three fins that are equal in length and size and spaced evenly apart
- 2-fin: Two fins that are equal in length and size and space evenly apart
- 2 plus 1: One single larger fin in the center and two smaller fins on either side
If you know you want to take your board out on both flatwater and whitewater (or the ocean), invest in a brand that has a surf fin in its lineup. Some brands also offer spare fins with a purchase.
Standup Paddleboard Paddles
The majority of SUPs include a paddle with purchase, but not all. One of our favorite designs, the Hydrus JoyRide, includes a collection of great accessories, but the paddle needs to be purchased separately. Generally, an inflatable SUP includes a multi-piece or three-piece paddle that breaks down and fits well in the travel bag. The length is adjustable.
A paddle has a handle at one end connected to the shaft and a blade (which goes in the water) at the other end. Nicer paddles have more ergonomic handles.
Paddle shafts are usually made of aluminum, glass fiber, carbon, or Kevlar. Carbon is the most performance-oriented because it’s lightweight and strong, and the investment could be worth the long haul.
Leash
A leash is helpful if you fall off your board and don’t want it to float away, especially if it’s breezy or wavy or if you pushed the board away as you toppled over. A leash is also a tool used by flatwater racers, given their speed. Many SUPs are made with a leash attachment point like a D-ring.
Some SUP packages include a coiled leash that attaches to the board. The other side of the leash is padded and attaches with Velcro around the paddler’s ankle, such as the one made by BOTE ($44).
However, there is major contention nationwide regarding the safety of using a leash on a SUP (and on a river surfboard), especially in turbulent, quick-shifting, debris-laden water. The industry lacks universal standards regarding this piece of gear. Fatalities have occurred due to leashes getting lodged in underwater debris when a SUPer falls off in fast-moving river water.
To help increase a paddler’s ability to disconnect themselves from their setup, multiple brands have designed quick-release leashes such as NRS ($64), Hala ($80), and Level Six ($50). If you purchase a quick-release leash, be sure to practice and confidently know how to effectively and efficiently use it in the water. And no, a leash doesn’t replace the buoyancy and safety of a PFD (personal flotation device). Be sure to follow the PFD, or life jacket, regulations where you plan to SUP.
Travel Bags & Straps
Travel bags are usually included in the package for an inflatable SUP, and they often have a backpack design with padded shoulder straps, a hip belt, and a chest strap. Other travel bags even have durable wheels so they can be rolled. Typically, the bags have zippered, Velcro, or sleeve pockets on the exterior or interior. Bags are a great way to keep all of the accessories in one place, including the fins, hand pump, and patch kit.
The most unique travel bag design we’ve seen is the one made by Red Paddle Co., which comes with the MSL 10′ 6″ Ride SUP. Great for minimal approach hikes, the SUP offers the option to fully isolate the shoulder harness from the rest of the roller backpack, leaving behind a simple system of straps that attach horizontally and vertically around the SUP. For a streamlined paddle day, this arrangement is great.
One alternative to a travel bag is an adjustable carry strap, called Travelink (sold separately), that attaches to the rail of certain Bote SUPs, like the BOTE Breeze Aero 10′ 6″, for easier transport.
Repair Kits: What’s Included
It’s not every day that you have an opportunity to watch a 7-year-old bomber SUP finally bust at the rails from general wear and tear. But it can happen — and happened to us — so be prepared. Always carry at least one repair kit on a trip, and know if the supplies are an adequate quantity to fix your SUP, plus the other boards, if there’s a gear emergency.
Many SUP bundles include a repair kit. Prepacked repair kits from manufacturers typically include:
- A brightly colored, solid waterproof case
- PVC glue (polyvinyl chloride, a type of plastic)
- PVC patches (circular — you can cut down with a pocket knife but be sure its large enough to keep the hole closed)
- Valve tool that can tighten or loosen the valve point on your SUP
In our experience, a single fix in the field can require nearly all of the kit’s supplies. So, if you’re doing a longer multiday trip, consider adding extra supplies to your kit or carrying more than one. Also, be sure to not touch PVC glue with your bare skin.
How to Use: Repair Kit Supplies
If air is leaking out of the valve, use the valve tool to tighten it by giving a small clockwise twist. The majority of the time there is a leak, it’s coming from the valve, where dirt can get lodged. A valve tool can also loosen the valve enough to pull it up so you can clean out any debris.
Not all valve tools are interchangeable across valves — so carry the one that came with your board! Some PVC patches are rectangular, and others are circular. Either way, make sure you have a generous amount on hand. If you need to fix even a small hole along the rail, the patch will likely need to extend several inches on either side of the hole in order to fully secure the leak.
Inspect Your SUP
If you see signs of air bubbles around the edge of the SUP, don’t take ‘em lightly — they could burst. It’s especially important to inspect your board after a low tide day with rocks, following a multiday outing, and after you’ve done a repair in the field.
Before you take off, inspect the valve in addition to the board’s seams.
In the Field: Beware of Heat
First things first: Heed that warning label. Do not leave your inflated SUP in direct sunlight, regardless of the board’s age. On one multiday trip after the sun rose and baked our boards on the beach, this caused a seam to leak. Leaving your board sitting out in the sun can also degrade the strength of the material over time, delaminating the board. Not to mention, UV rays could cause the surface and colors of your board to fade.
Store in a Cool Place
That goes for storage, too: Beware of heat. A popular option can be to keep your SUP inflated and hang it between outings, but make sure the rack or pulley system allows the board to rest in the shade.
Overall, stashing the plastic at a cooler temperature and out of unnecessary UV rays can help extend its lifespan.
Packages & Accessories
Many boards include a paddle, fin, hand pump, and travel bag in the package. Other brands manufacture accessories like magnetized cups or removable chairs like on the ISLE Switch.
Warranty Plan & Recycling Your SUP
Check your SUP’s warranty plan. We’ve experienced incidents outside of our warranty, including retired boards that had a 5-year warranty. Some brands, including Hala Gear, will take back retired SUPs and reuse the materials to keep waste out of landfills — like repurposing the deck pads as floor mats. Or using the interior drop stitch for educational videos and displays.
Product Lifespan
Based on our experience, you could generally expect the lifespan of a premium whitewater SUP to reach around 7 years. That’s if the board is built with double-glued, mechanically welded seams — and it’s not been hammered by pup feet or dragged across asphalt. According to Hala Gear, the standard minimum life expectancy on all of the boards they produce is the same timespan. That said, the final blowout we’ve experienced (after 7 years) was a reinforcement of the red flags of wear-and-tear, general maintenance, as well as prevention.
Price & Value
Our favorite SUPs range from $499 to $1,399 on the high end. Typically, SUPs cost around $1,000.
Budget
The lowest-priced SUPs are still quite durable but their seams, rails, and plastic will not be as durable and reinforced as a premium build. These models are great for entry-level paddlers or folks who keep their day trips mellow on flat water. A few options include the Gili Sports 11′ 6″ AIR ($595), Boardworks SHUBU Solr ($500), or BOTE WULF Aero 10′ 4“ ($499). You’ll also notice that these boards have fewer attachment points to strap down gear (they can’t handle as much weight, anyways), as well as fewer or leaner grab handles.
Mid-Tier
In this zone — still under $1,000 — you’ll see an uptick in attachment points, weight capacity, higher-end construction, and grab handles. These SUPs are great all-rounders and sturdy enough for whitewater. Some have a higher weight capacity and are great for long tours and speeding across water, like the iRocker Blackfin Model V ($900). Others incorporate more technical materials for rigidity, like the Isle Pioneer Pro ($995).
Premium
The most premium models cashing out above $1,000 are the most well-constructed boards. These are the whips you want to use on whitewater adventures, fishing trips, or multiday camping trips. These designs have welded seams, multiple layers of composite material creating the outer shell, many soft and ergonomic grab handles, lash points in every direction, metal d-rings, and adaptable, high-end fins. In this arena, you’ll find the Hydrus JoyRide ($1,165) and boards like the Pau Hana Endurance Air ($1,249) with 23 D-rings.
Frequently Asked Questions
There is no “best” brand. However, some SUP brands have been around long enough that we’d consider them at the top of the market. The list is short: NRS, Blackfin, Starboard, BOTE, and Hala Gear. More top brands are emerging, including ISLE (founded in 2008), Glide, and Atoll (both founded in 2014).
Also, there is a range of product quality based on the materials that are used to make each SUP. For instance, metal d-rings are more durable and typically cost more than alternative cloth designs or eliminating the tie-down point from the board.
As noted in the intro, the inflatable SUP market has skyrocketed over the past 6 or so years. Why? Inflatable boards are fantastic. You don’t need a special roof rack, garage, or special straps to carry a 12-foot, 40-pound piece of gear around. All you need is an oversized backpack and some space in your trunk. Inflatable boards, by nature, deflate and pack down small. They’re easy to travel with, are fairly easy to care for and maintain, and come in at a great price.
Even better, almost all inflatables (all the ones we’ve listed) come in a package: SUP, paddle, backpack, fin, and pump. There’s no need to buy any SUP gear separately. That being said, the quality of inflatables does vary widely based on materials, construction, and design. The stability and feel of the board are a little different.
If you know you want to invest in the sport or are going to be paddling in extremes (cold or whitewater), you’ll want to spend extra time researching a board’s construction (welded seams, thicker PVC) and performance in your intended environment.
Of the paddleboards we’ve tested and reviewed, we’d mark the 11′ 6″ BOTE HD Aero as the most stable on our list. This is due to its width, sidewalls, weight capacity, and overall construction. This is a middle-of-the-pack, not-too-heavy, and well-balanced board that measures a full 34 inches across.
It’s got lots of D-rings for strapping down gear, or a kayak seat if you are looking to feel extra grounded and stable on your board. And the HD Aeros also clocks in at a great price point for its size.
It’s worth noting that if you are looking for other stable board choices, fishing expeditions, yoga SUPs, and touring boards are commonly a bit wider across. Any board that is 34-36 inches across is a good choice.
Of course, other factors contribute to stability. But, width and sidewall depth as well as overall shape are the big ones.
The best SUP for beginners is the one that fits you best. For most people, that’s a board that is larger so it has a higher weight capacity and provides more stability to accommodate riders of different weights (say, if you’re sharing a board with your partner). We frequently recommend an inflatable model as a first board due to its durability and ease of storage.
Contrary to newbie beliefs, inflatable boards are very durable, can pack down small, are convenient and easy to use and store, and are usually more budget-friendly. Even better, if you learn on an inflatable SUP, you’ll have great balance for when you decide to tackle ocean or whitewater paddling or upgrade to a rigid board.
Our recommendation would be to look for an inflatable board at least 10′ 6″ or 11′ in length, with a weight capacity of at least 230 pounds.
Always inflate to the recommended PSI. You want to keep the maximum weight in mind if you have two riders, whether two adults or an adult, and cargo (dog or kid). If you are a heavier rider and want more stability, feel free to inflate to the maximum recommended PSI when starting out.
Invest in some boat cleaner for your SUP. An inflatable boat cleaner is designed to remove any dirt, oxidation, and marks from a SUP or kayak (works on PVC or urethane materials). Alternatively, you can wipe down your board after use with a damp cloth. This is crucial if you are paddling frequently in saltwater. We always carry a soft microfiber towel in the trunk. If we’re hiking in, we carry a lightweight towel and brush the dirt off the board as we roll it up for the hike out.
Inflatable SUPs can be deflated, rolled up, and easily stashed inside a truck bed or inside your rig.
If you plan to transport a SUP on the outside of your vehicle, be sure the board is completely locked down and secured. For instance, Thule makes a SUP roof rack and Viking Solutions makes a truck bed rack.
SUPs that are sketchily or incorrectly fixed to vehicles can fly off and into the windshields of rigs behind them. Be sure your board is correctly affixed.
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