I grew up backpacking with my very outdoorsy parents, but once they hit their 50s, they drew a line in the sand. They were happy to go on hiking adventures, but refused to sleep on the ground, which is entirely fair. Their backs and hips hurt, and they were over the idea of schlepping around 30-plus–pound packs.
And it’s not just folks in their older years who want to skip camping. There are plenty of people of all ages who love the outdoors, but, for whatever reason, don’t want to sleep in a tent. Unfortunately, that rules out participating in most long-distance thru-hikes (sleeping in a tent on the PCT or AT is sort of a requirement of the experience).
However, people looking for a slightly more luxe thru-hiking experience do have an alternative in the Pacific Northwest. The 400-mile Oregon Coast Trail (OCT) offers multiple lodging options, from campgrounds to inns to fancy hotels. For folks who want some creature comforts with their outdoor adventure, the OCT is a great fit.
Here’s everything you need to know about this customizable trail.
The Route
The OCT follows along the state’s coastline from its border with Washington down to its border with California. The trail passes through many of Oregon’s state parks, and traverses both beaches and lush rainforests. On a typical day, you might spend several hours alone walking on a pristine beach, then walk through a small seaside tourist town, and then hike up through a grove of Sitka spruce trees.
It’s also a wonderful opportunity to view some of the region’s distinct wildlife, including puffins, stellar sea lions, murres, Roosevelt elk, and a whole menagerie of other birds. I saw multiple seals (maybe sea lions, not sure which) lounging along the beaches.
I completed the first 96 miles of the OCT in June, and it was a dream. The elevation gain was moderate, the trail was overall well-marked, and the landscapes and vistas were worth every footstep. And unlike other popular hiking trails, there are no permits and no lotteries to enter.
Lodging
There are a whole host of options for folks who don’t want to camp but still want to hike part of the OCT, or the whole thing. Every day, you’ll pass through at least one seaside town, with motels, hotels, and Airbnbs. Obviously, this requires some advance planning. The Oregon Coast is popular as a summer vacation destination, so lodging can fill up on weekends and holidays like the Fourth of July.
The cost, obviously, is a little higher than camping. However, you’d be surprised that it’s not by much. Dispersed camping is not allowed on much of the OCT, so hikers have to stay in Oregon State Park or private campgrounds, which are not cheap. These can easily run up to $70 per night. Depending on the location, a night at a local motel might not cost much more.
Staying in hotels or B&Bs also presents the advantage of drastically cutting the weight of your pack. You won’t need a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, etc., so your pack will be far lighter, and you can move much faster on trail. You might be paying more for accommodations, but you’ll complete the trail in less time, meaning fewer nights.
If you’re planning on staying in accommodations, there are a few things to consider. Towns can be unevenly spaced out on the trail. This means that some days will have to be short (less than 10 miles), and some will have to be long (over 20 miles). Some locations offer lodging, but no other services, so you’ll need to buy food ahead of time.
At several points on the trail, arranging ferry or boat transportation can save you from walking several miles along the narrow shoulder of the road. I called marinas a few days ahead of time, and found it easy to arrange a boat ride. They cost anywhere from $10 to $40, and I appreciated the opportunity to talk with locals and experience the landscape from a different perspective.
Food
Much like where you choose to sleep, food on this trail is entirely what you make of it. There is plenty of access to grocery stores, so you could restock once every few days, and eat actual fresh food like fruit, sandwiches, chips, etc. The seaside towns are also home to abundant restaurants, cafes, delis, breweries, and coffee shops.
On my week-long hike, I brought dehydrated food, snacks, and a stove and fuel. I did stop a couple of times for a sandwich or burrito as a break from my freeze-dried food. Nothing gives you a mental boost on a long day like a massive breakfast burrito with cheese, bacon, and crispy potatoes.
Whatever your budget is, you could make it work. If you’re a dirtbag, you could easily live on bread and peanut butter, but if you want the chance to dine at a five-star restaurant after a long day on trail, you can do that too. This part of Oregon is also a renowned crabbing and fishing spot, so if you love seafood, there are plenty of local joints to enjoy it.
Resources
The Oregon Coast Trail Foundation is a nonprofit that supports the maintenance of the trail. Its website is a great resource for planning and news on any possible trail disruptions. There is also a guidebook by Bonnie Henderson that I found extremely useful. It breaks down each section day by day, and has plenty of info on boat crossings and logistics.
If you’re looking for a quick primer of what to expect and gear to bring, check out my trip guide (note that I chose to camp).
It is possible to reach many points of the trail via public transportation, so if you only want to do a portion of the OCT, you should be able to get in and out without a car.
There are some backpackers and thru-hikers out there (especially online) who would scoff at not camping on trail, but don’t let them stop you. Whatever itinerary you need or want to plan to get outside, do it. There are no purity tests when it comes to being an outdoorsy person, so hike your hike and enjoy the journey.
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