If you’re a backpacker who doesn’t ski or snowboard, winter can be a tough time. You’re stuck inside, with the cold, icy weather keeping you from the trail. As a backpacker and climber who lives in the Midwest, come January, I’m almost too stir crazy to function.
In a select few places, however, winter can actually be a backpacking paradise. ‘Tis the season to backpack through desert environments whose unbearably hot temps finally dip down into the “normal” range.
And if you can make it to Southern California, you’re in store for a stunning hike in the dead of winter. The California Riding and Hiking Trail (CRHT) takes you through 37 miles of Joshua Tree National Park (JTNP) for an off-season adventure that’s worth the trek.
Winter Backpacking the California Riding & Hiking Trail: Joshua Tree National Park
The CRHT is a point-to-point hike that takes you from one end of JTNP (Black Rock Canyon) to the other (North Entrance). The 37-mile trail takes hikers past some of the park’s most iconic sites, including Quail Mountain, Cap Rock, Arch Rock, and the San Bernardino Mountains.
Of course, the true star of the show is the park’s eponymous Joshua Trees. Looking at pictures of these otherworldly trees doesn’t do justice to how truly impressive and mesmerizing these trees are in person. They’re like snowflakes. Each one is slightly different, as their branches twist in and out in varying directions.
Joshua Tree is also well-known for its wildlife. Common sites include spiny lizards, bats, and the desert tortoise. If you spot one of the park’s big-horned sheep or foxes, count yourself lucky.
There are also over 250 species of birds, including migrating warblers, tanagers, and orioles. The park’s location on the Pacific Flyway, a migratory path for birds, makes it a hotspot of activity.
If you’re a new backpacker or just looking for a trail you can do over a long weekend, the CRHT is a great pick. The trail is incredibly well-signed, with markers every mile; any time there’s a spur trail, you can be sure to find signage.
Except for a slight elevation gain at the beginning, the entire route is relatively flat — the hiking is moderate.
Winter hiking the CRHT is also an escape from the crowds that often jam the park.
When I hiked the trail over Thanksgiving weekend, the park was packed with visitors, with seemingly endless lines of cars at the entrances. However, when I hiked the CRHT in winter, I only saw four other backpackers the entire time.
When to Backpack the California Riding & Hiking Trail
Winter is the ideal time to visit JTNP. Obviously, the summer months can be brutally hot, with the average high reaching into the triple digits.
From November through March, the temps range from the 70s down to the 30s, ideal backpacking temperatures if we’ve ever seen them. The park can, in some rare cases, get a dusting of snow, but as long as you’re prepared with proper layers and a rainfly, you should be fine.
Camping & Permits: Joshua Tree National Park
There are no designated campsites in the JTNP. Instead, when registering for their permit, backpackers specify which of the park’s 13 zones they’ll camp in each night. From there, backpackers can camp anywhere, provided they are at least 1 mile from any trailhead, half a mile from any road, and 200 feet from any trail. Fires are not permitted anywhere in JTNP outside of the fire rings in established campgrounds.
This system makes it easy to customize your itinerary and allows for slight flexibility in the mileage you hike each day. For most people, the CRHT takes between two and four days to hike in full. I completed it in three.
Assuming there isn’t any heavy rain in the forecast, washes, which are plentiful on the trail, make great campsites. They’re flat and wide open, and have almost no vegetation, so camping there won’t impact the area’s ecology.
Permits are available on recreation.gov. Users can reserve them up to 6 months in advance. I booked my trip for November, less than 2 months out, and had little problem securing a backcountry permit. While established campsites in Joshua Tree are hard to get, backcountry permits are far more accessible.
Note: Hammocks are banned from being tied to Joshua Trees in JTNP. You’ll want to bring a freestanding tent or cowboy camp instead. See our list of gear to bring below.
Logistics
There are a few key elements of backpacking in Joshua Tree that require advance planning. Here are a few important things to keep in mind before heading out.
Water
There is no water on the trail. However, backpackers are allowed to cache water at trailheads. Choose a sturdy container, like a Nalgene. Birds have been known to peck through and drink from thin plastic water jugs that you’d get from the grocery store. Write your name and the date of your trip on the container, or on tape stuck to the container. Then, as you pass by, you simply pick them up and refresh your supply.
Just make sure you have enough room in your pack to carry the cached bottles with your empty containers as well.
Transportation
Since this is a point-to-point trail, unless your hiking party has multiple people and multiple cars, you’ll need to work out some form of transport. I prearranged an Uber pickup from the endpoint of the trail near the North Entrance. I left my rental car there, rode back to the trailhead in my Uber, and then finished at the car.
This worked well and cost around $100. If you’re hiking with one or more friends and can divide the cost and share the ride, it’s pretty negligible. Make sure you reserve your Uber ahead of time,though. Cell service is spotty in the park.
If you’re coming from out of state, the closest airport is in Palm Springs, about a 50-minute, 45-mile drive away. I rented a car and added a few days after my hike to camp at the park and go climbing. Be aware that getting a reservation at the established, park-run campsites can be quite competitive.
Where to Eat
If there’s one thing I always research before a backpacking trip, it’s where I’m going to have my first post-hike meal. Backpacking many miles after days of dehydrated food deserves a reward!
I stopped at the Tiny Pony Tavern, a queer-friendly bar with all-star burgers and fried chicken sandwiches, and gin and tonics served in pitchers. The Red Dog Saloon feels like it’s the set of an old Western film, and it’s got gigantic breakfast burritos that are sure to satisfy.
Gear to Bring
The gear list for the CRHT in winter is similar to that of most backpacking trips. While you won’t have to endure frigid winter conditions, you’ll still need to go prepared for chilly nights and mornings, and the potential for weather.
As mentioned, in winter, rain and even snow are not unheard of in JTNP. Check the weather consistently ahead of your trip to make sure you have the necessary gear for the conditions you’ll be hiking in.
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